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			<title>C-1</title>
			<link>http://www.anarchistcookbook.com/showthread.php?t=6398</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Jul 2007 16:04:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Listen up; this shit is powerful, dangerous, and highly illegal. If you don't have any sort of background in chemistry, you'll probably kill...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Listen up; this shit is powerful, dangerous, and highly illegal. If you don't have any sort of background in chemistry, you'll probably kill yourself. To detonate it, you need an explosion, such as the one produced by mercury fulminate. For now just remember, if you can't understand any part of this, then DON'T FUCK WITH IT!!<br />
<br />
Preliminaries: <br />
<br />
Let's cut through the shit and get down to what you really want to know.<br />
<br />
1. C-1 is 150% more powerful than T.N.T. <br />
2. It's 10% more powerful than C-4<br />
3. It expands at a rate of 8850 meters per second when compressed into a cube with a density of 1.55 g/cubic cm.<br />
<br />
Materials<br />
<br />
Chemicals: <br />
Hexamine (compressed fuel tablets found in sporting goods stores) <br />
50 grams<br />
Concentrated Nitric Acid<br />
550 mL<br />
Distilled Water<br />
Table Salt<br />
Ice<br />
Ammonium Nitrate (optional) <br />
<br />
<br />
Equipment: <br />
500 ml beaker<br />
glass stirring rod<br />
funnel and filter paper<br />
ice bath container<br />
centigrade thermometer<br />
blue litmus paper<br />
<br />
PROCEDURE<br />
<br />
1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, and carefully pour 550 mL of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.<br />
<br />
2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, carefully begin adding small amounts of the crushed fuel tablets, which you previously ground into a fine powder. The temp will rise, and must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or you'll blow your fucking head off!! Stir.<br />
<br />
3) Drop the temp to below zero, either by adding salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new one, or by adding ammonium nitrate to the old ice bath. Continue stirring for at least 20 minutes, while keeping the temp below zero.<br />
<br />
4) Pour the mixture into a liter of crushed ice. Shake, stir, and allow to ***t. Once ***ted, filter out the crystals and dispose of the corrosive liquid (say in some poor cat's water dish) <br />
<br />
5) Place the crystals into 1/2 a liter of boiling water, filter out the crystals, and test them for acidity with the litmus paper. Repeat step 5 until the litmus paper doesn't change color anymore, meaning you have boiled off all of the excess acid.<br />
<br />
6) To make the plasticizer, mix by weight: <br />
88.8% R.D.X. (the crystals) <br />
11.4% mineral oil<br />
0.6% lecithin<br />
<br />
I've also heard that Vaseline and wax in a 5 to 1 ratio work well.<br />
<br />
<br />
You can buy Muriatic Acid (which is hydrochloric acid) at Home Depot. It's around 65% HCl, that's about the highest you'll find. You may be able to concentrate it more than that, but to get higher than about 75-80% you'll need access to a lot of things you don't have access to, so that's probably about the best you'll get.<br />
Just the Muriatic acid as it comes is REALLY corrosive though... try just pouring a little bit on some concrete. It will pour out clear then react with chemicals on the concrete and turn greenish, and you'll see some bubbles and smoke and shit. Nasty ass shit and personally it scares me to handle it.<br />
<br />
I don't think drain cleaners contain HCl... I got into trouble with the police for setting off a Drain-O bomb a while back and they referred to the drain-o as some kind of acid. I forgot the name they used but it was NOT hydrochloric or Muriatic; I would've remembered that. Plus I think HCl would pretty badly degrade any metal it comes into contact with, so it's not very practical for drains.<br />
<br />
And actually Jamb he's got a decent question here... there are many, many types of acids sold commonly that are not. corrosive and will not become corrosive to a noticeable degree under any conditions. In fact, there are only a handful of acids that are corrosive enough to be considered dangerous to handle. And of this handful there are only two that you're likely to be able to get your hands on as a civilian: hydrochloric and sulfuric]]></content:encoded>
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			<title>Nytroglicerine</title>
			<link>http://www.anarchistcookbook.com/showthread.php?t=6397</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Jul 2007 16:01:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Like all chemists I must advise you all to take the greatest care and caution when you are doing this. Even if you have made this stuff before. This...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Like all chemists I must advise you all to take the greatest care and caution when you are doing this. Even if you have made this stuff before. This first article will give you information on making nitroglycerin, the basic ingredient in<br />
a lot of explosives such as straight dynamites, and gelatin dynamites.<br />
Making nitroglycerin; <br />
<br />
1.Fill a 75-milliliter beaker to the 13 mL. Level with fuming red nitric acid, of 98% pure concentration.<br />
2. Place the beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool below room temp.<br />
3. After it has cooled, add to it three times the amount of fuming sulfuric acid (99% h2so4). In other words, add to the<br />
now-cool fuming nitric acid 39 mL. Of fuming sulfuric acid. When mixing any acids, always do it slowly and<br />
carefully to avoid splattering.<br />
4. When the two are mixed, lower their temp. By adding more ice to the bath, about 10-15ÃƒÂ¸C. (Use mercury operated thermometer)<br />
5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temperature, it is ready for the glycerin. The glycerin must be<br />
added in small amounts using a medicine dropper. (Read this step about 10 times!) Glycerin is added slowly<br />
and carefully (I mean careful!) Until the entire surface of the acid it covered with it.<br />
6. This is a dangerous point since the nitration will take place as soon as the glycerin is added. The nitration will<br />
produce heat, so the solution must be kept below 30ÃƒÂ¸C! If the solution should go above 30ÃƒÂ¸C, immediately<br />
dump the solution into the ice bath! This will insure that it does not go off in your face!<br />
7. For the first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture should be gently stirred. In a normal reaction the nitroglycerin will<br />
form as a layer on top of the acid solution, while the sulfuric acid will absorb the excess water.<br />
8. After the nitration has taken place, and the nitroglycerin has formed on the top of the solution, the entire beaker<br />
should be transferred slowly and carefully to another beaker of water. When this is done the nitroglycerin will<br />
settle at the bottom so the other acids can be drained away.<br />
9.After removing as much acid as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerin, remove the nitroglycerin with an<br />
eyedropper and place it in a bicarbonate of soda (sodium bicarbonate in case you didn't know) solution. The<br />
sodium is an alkali and will neutralize much of the acid remaining. This process should be repeated as much as<br />
necessary using blue litmus paper to check for the presence of acid. The remaining acid only makes the<br />
nitroglycerin more unstable than it already is.<br />
10. Finally! The final step is to remove the nitroglycerin from the bicarbonate. This is done with and eye- dropper, slowly and carefully.<br />
The usual test to see if nitration has been successful is to place one drop of the<br />
nitroglycerin on metal and ignite it. If it is true nitroglycerin it will burn with a clear blue flame.]]></content:encoded>
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