It doesn't matter that much man as long as its wet.

i think wormth like from the sun or whatever is good too. just more energy to push things along

lol here ya go so u guys can stop messin it up cuz im tired of smokin bad pot!
72. How to grow Marijuana by The Jolly Roger
MARIJUANA
Marijuana is a deciduous plant which grows from seeds. The fibrous section of the plant was (has been replaced by
synthetics) used to make rope. The flowering tops, leaves, seeds, and resin of the plant is used by just about everyone
to get HIGH. Normally, the vegetable parts of the plant are smoked to produce this "high," but they can also be eaten.
The active ingredient in marijuana resin is THC (Tetahydrocannabinol). Marijuana contains from 1%-4% THC (4%
must be considered GOOD dope). Marijuana grows wild in many parts of the world, and is cultivated in Mexico,
Vietnam, Africa, Nepal, India, South America, etc. The marijuana sold in the United States comes primarily from, yes,
the United States. It is estimated that at least 50% of the grass on the streets in America is homegrown. The next largest
bunch comes across the borders from Mexico, with smaller amounts filtering in from Panama, occasionally South
America, and occasionally, Africa. Hashish is the pure resin of the marijuana plant, which is scraped from the
flowering tops of the plant and lumped together. Ganja is the ground-up tops of the finest plants. (It is also the name
given to any sort of marijuana in Jamaica.) Marijuana will deteriorate in about two years if exposed to light, air or heat.
It should always be stored in cool places. Grass prices in the United States are a direct reflection of the laws of supply
and demand (and you thought that high school economics would never be useful). A series of large border busts, a
short growing season, a bad crop, any number of things can drive the price of marijuana up. Demand still seems to be
on the increase in the US, so prices seldom fall below last year's level. Each year a small seasonal drought occurs, as
last year's supply runs low, and next year's crop is not up yet. Prices usually rise about 20%-75% during this time and
then fall back to "normal." Unquestionably, a large shortage of grass causes a percentage of smokers to turn to harder
drugs instead. For this reason, no grass control program can ever be beneficial or "successful."
GROW IT!
There is one surefire way of avoiding high prices and the grass DT's: Grow your own. This is not as difficult as some
"authorities" on the subject would make you believe. Marijuana is a weed, and a fairly vivacious one at that, and it will
grow almost in spite of you.
OUTDOORS
Contrary to popular belief, grass grows well in many place on the North American continent. It will flourish even if the
temperature does not raise above 75ø. The plants do need a minimum of eight hours of sunlight per day and should be
planted in late April/early May, BUT DEFINITELY, after the last frost of the year. Growing an outdoor, or "au
naturel", crop has been the favored method over the years, because grass seems to grow better without as much
attention when in its natural habitat. Of course, an outdoors setting requires special precautions not encountered with
an indoors crop; you must be able to avoid detection, both from law enforcement freaks and common freaks, both of
whom will take your weed and probably use it. Of course, one will also arrest you. You must also have access to the
area to prepare the soil and harvest the crop. There are two schools of thought about starting the seeds. One says you
should start the seedlings for about ten days in an indoor starter box (see the indoor section) and then transplant. The
other theory is that you should just start them in the correct location. Fewer plants will come up with this method, but
there is no shock of transplant to kill some of the seedlings halfway through. The soil should be prepared for the little
devils by turning it over a couple of times and adding about one cup of hydrated lime per square yard of soil and a little
bit (not too much, now) of good water soluble nitrogen fertilizer. The soil should now be watered several times and left
to sit about one week. The plants should be planted at least three feet apart, getting too greedy and stacking them too
close will result in stunted plants. The plants like some water during their growing season, BUT not too much. This is
especially true around the roots, as too much water will rot the root system. Grass grows well in corn or hops, and these
plants will help provide some camouflage. It does not grow well with rye, spinach, or pepperweed. It is probably a
good idea to plant in many small, broken patches, as people tend to notice patterns.

GENERAL GROWING INFO
Both the male and he female plant produce THC resin, although the male is not as strong as the female. In a good crop,
the male will still be plenty smokable and should not be thrown away under any circumstances. Marijuana can reach a
height of twenty feet (or would you rather wish on a star) and obtain a diameter of 4« inches. If normal, it has a sex
ratio of about 1:1, but this can be altered in several ways. The male plant dies in the 12th week of growing, the female
will live another 3-5 weeks to produce her younguns. Females can weigh twice as much as males when they are mature.
Marijuana soil should compact when you squeeze it, but should also break apart with a small pressure and absorb water
well. A nice test for either indoor or outdoor growing is to add a bunch of worms to the soil, if they live and hang
around, it is good soil, but if they don't, well, change it. Worms also help keep the soil loose enough for the plants to
grow well.
SEEDS
To get good grass, you should start with the right seeds. A nice starting point is to save the seeds form the best batch
you have consumed. The seeds should be virile, that is, they should not be gray and shriveled up, but green, meaty, and
healthy appearing. A nice test is to drop the seeds on a hot frying pan. If they "CRACK," they are probably good for
planting purposes. The seeds should be soaked in distilled water overnight before planting. BE SURE to plant in the
ground with the pointy end UP. Plant about «" deep. Healthy seeds will sprout in about five days.
SPROUTING
The best all around sprouting method is probably to make a sprouting box (as sold in nurseries) with a slated bottom or
use paper cups with holes punched in the bottoms. The sprouting soil should be a mixture of humus, soil, and five sand
with a bit of organic fertilizer and water mixed in about one week before planting. When ready to transplant, you must
be sure and leave a ball of soil around the roots of each plant. This whole ball is dropped into a baseball-sized hold in
the permanent soil. If you are growing/transplanting indoors, you should use a green safe light (purchased at nurseries)
during the transplanting operation. If you are transplanting outdoors, you should time it about two hours before sunset
to avoid damage to the plant. Always wear cotton gloves when handling the young plants. After the plants are set in the
hole, you should water them. It is also a good idea to use a commercial transplant chemical (also purchased at
nurseries) to help then overcome the shock.

INDOOR GROWING
Indoor growing has many advantages, besides the apparent fact that it is much harder to have your crop "found," you
can control the ambient conditions just exactly as you want them and get a guaranteed "good" plant. Plants grown
indoors will not appear the same as their outdoor cousins. They will be scrawnier appearing with a weak stems and may
even require you to tie them to a growing post to remain upright, BUT THEY WILL HAVE AS MUCH OR MORE
RESIN! If growing in a room, you should put tar paper on the floors and then buy sterilized bags of soil form a nursery.
You will need about one cubic foot of soil for each plant. The plants will need about 150 mL. of water per plant/per
week. They will also need fresh air, so the room must be ventilated. (However, the fresh air should contain NO
TOBACCO smoke.) At least eight hours of light a day must be provided. As you increase the light, the plants grow
faster and show more females/less males. Sixteen hours of light per day seems to be the best combination, beyond this
makes little or no appreciable difference in the plant quality. Another idea is to interrupt the night cycle with about one
hour of light. This gives you more females. The walls of your growing room should be painted white or covered with
aluminum foil to reflect the light. The lights themselves can be either bulbs of fluorescent. Figure about 75 watts per
plant or one plant per two feet of fluorescent tube. The fluorescents are the best, but do not use "cool white" types. The
light sources should be an average of twenty inches from the plant and NEVER closer than 14 inches. They may be
mounted on a rack and moved every few days as the plants grow. The very best light sources are those made by
Sylvania and others especially for growing plants (such as the "gro lux" types).
HARVESTING AND DRYING
The male plants will be taller and have about five green or yellow sepals, which will split open to fertilize the female
plant with pollen. The female plant is shorter and has a small pistillate flower, which really doesn't look like a flower at
all but rather a small bunch of leaves in a cluster. If you don't want any seeds, just good dope, you should pick the
males before they shed their pollen as the female will use some of her resin to make the seeds. After another three to
five weeks, after the males are gone, the females will begin to wither and die (from loneliness?), this is the time to pick.
In some nefarious Middle Eastern countries, farmers reportedly put their beehives next to fields of marijuana. The little
devils collect the grass pollen for their honey, which is supposed to contain a fair dosage of THC. The honey is then
enjoyed by conventional methods or made into ambrosia. If you want seeds - let the males shed his pollen then pick
him. Let the female go another month and pick her. To cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops, this is
accomplished by constructing a drying box or drying room. You must have a heat source (such as an electric heater)
which will make the box/room each 130ø. The box/room must be ventilated to carry off the water-vapor-laden air and
replace it with fresh. A good box can be constructed from an orange crate with fiberglass insulated walls, vents in the
tops, and screen shelves to hold the leaves. There must be a baffle between the leaves and the heat source. A quick cure
for smaller amounts is to: cut the plant at the soil level and wrap it in a cloth so as not to loose any leaves. Take out any
seeds by hand and store. Place all the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminum foil and put them in the middle shelf of the
oven, which is set on "broil." In a few seconds, the leaves will smoke and curl up, stir them around and give another ten
seconds before you take them out.

TO INCREASE THE GOOD STUFF
There are several tricks to increase the number of females, or the THC content of plants: You can make the plants
mature in 36 days if you are in a hurry, by cutting back on the light to about 14 hours, but the plants will not be as big.
You should gradually shorten the light cycle until you reach fourteen hours. You can stop any watering as the plants
begin to bake the resin rise to the flowers. This will increase the resin a bit. You can use a sunlamp on the plants as
they begin to develop flower stalks. You can snip off the flower, right at the spot where it joins the plant, and a new
flower will form in a couple of weeks. This can be repeated two or three times to get several times more flowers than
usual.
If the plants are sprayed with Ethrel early in their growing stage, they will produce almost all female plants. This
usually speeds up the flowering also, it may happen in as little as two weeks. You can employ a growth changer called
colchicine. This is a bit hard to get and expensive. (Should be ordered through a lab of some sort and costs about $35 a
gram.) To use the colchicine, you should prepare your presoaking solution of distilled water with about 0.10 per cent
colchicine. This will cause many of the seeds to die and not germinate, but the ones that do come up will be polyploid
plants. This is the accepted difference between such strains as "gold" and normal grass, and yours will DEFINITELY
be superweed. The problem here is that colchicine is a poison in larger quantities and may be poisonous in the first
generation of plants. Bill Frake, author of CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA runs a very complete
colchicine treatment down and warns against smoking the first generation plants (all succeeding generations will also
be polyploid) because of this poisonous quality. However, the Medical Index shows colchicine being given in very
small quantities to people for treatment if various ailments. Although these quantities are small, they would appear to
be larger than any you could receive form smoking a seed-treated plant. It would be a good idea to buy a copy of
CONNOISSEUR'S, if you are planning to attempt this, and read Mr. Drake's complete instructions. Another stillexperimental
process to increase the resin it to pinch off the leaf tips as soon as they appear from the time the plant is in
the seedling stage on through its entire life-span. This produces a distorted, wrecked-looking plant which would be
very difficult to recognize as marijuana. Of course, there is less substance to this plant, but such wrecked creatures have
been known to produce so much resin that it crystallizes a strong hash all over the surface of the plant - might be wise
to try it on a plant or two and see what happens.
PLANT PROBLEM CHART
Always check the overall environmental conditions prior to passing judgment - soil around 7 pH or slightly less -
plenty of water, light, fresh air, loose soil, no water standing in pools.
SYMPTOM PROBABLY PROBLEM/CURE
Larger leaves turning yellow - smaller leaves still green. Nitrogen deficiency - add nitrate of soda or organic
fertilizer.
Older leaves will curl at edges, turn dark, possibly with a purple cast. Phosphorous deficien
Mature leaves develop a yellowish cast to least venial areas. Magnesium deficiency - add commercial fertilizer with a
magnesium content.
Mature leaves turn yellow and then become spotted with edge areas turning dark gray. Potassium deficiency
Cracked stems, no healthy support tissue. Boron deficiency - add any plant food containing boron.
Small wrinkled leaves with yellowish vein systems. Zinc deficiency - add commercial plant food containing
zinc.
Young leaves become deformed, possibly yellowing. Molybdenum deficiency - use any plant food with a bit
of molybdenum in it.
EXTRA SECTION: BAD WEED/GOOD WEED
Can you turn bad weed into good weed? Surprisingly enough, the answer to this often-asked inquiry is, yes! Like most
other things in life, the amount of good you are going to do relates directly to how much effort you are going to put
into it. There are no instant, supermarket products which you can spray on Kansas catnip and have wonderweed, but
there are a number of simplified, inexpensive processes (Gee, Mr. Wizard!) which will enhance mediocre grass
somewhat, and there are a couple of fairly involved processes which will do up even almost-parsley weed into
something worth writing home about.
EASES
1.Place the dope in a container which allows air to enter in a restricted fashion (such as a can with nail holes punched
in its lid) and add a bunch of dry ice, and the place the whole shebang in the freezer for a few days. This process
will add a certain amount of potency to the product, however, this only works with dry ice, if you use normal,
everyday freezer ice, you will end up with a soggy mess...
2.Take a quantity of grass and dampen it, place in a baggy or another socially acceptable container, and store it in a
dark, dampish place for a couple of weeks (burying it also seems to work). The grass will develop a mold which
tastes a bit harsh, a and burns a tiny bit funny, but does increase the potency.
3.Expose the grass to the high intensity light of a sunlamp for a full day or so. Personally, I don't feel that this is worth
the effort, but if you just spent $400 of your friend's money for this brick of super-Colombian, right-from-the-
President's-personal-stash, and it turns out to be Missouri weed, and you're packing your bags to leave town
before the people arrive for their shares, well, you might at least try it. Can't hurt.
4.Take the undesirable portions of our stash (stems, seeds, weak weed, worms, etc.) and place them in a covered pot,
with enough rubbing alcohol to cover everything. Now CAREFULLY boil the mixture on an ELECTRIC stove or
lab burner. DO NOT USE GAS - the alcohol is too flammable. After 45 minutes of heat, remove the pot and strain
the solids out, SAVING THE ALCOHOL. Now, repeat the process with the same residuals, but fresh alcohol.
When the second boil is over, remove the solids again, combine the two quantities of alcohol and reboil until you
have a syrupy mixture. Now, this syrupy mixture will contain much of the THC formerly hidden in the stems and
such. One simply takes this syrup the thoroughly combines it with the grass that one wishes to improve upon.
SPECIAL SECTION ON RELATED SUBJECT MARYGIN
Marygin is an anagram of the words marijuana and gin, as in Eli Whitney. It is a plastic tumbler which acts much like a
commercial cotton gin. One takes about one ounce of an herb and breaks it up. This is then placed in the Marygin and
the protruding knob is rotated. This action turns the internal wheel, which separates the grass from the debris (seeds,
stems). It does not pulverize the grass as screens have a habit of doing and is easily washable.

why didnt you just post a link
jackass.

nice copy and paste

http://nepenthes.lycaeum.org/Plants/...potgrow-1.html

I learned that you can germinate the seeds just by soaking them in distilled water and waiting til they sink. I did it in a shotglass ontop of my water heater.